Cheap skincare products available in Canada that actually work

For this week’s Reality Cheque column, we’re looking at why some products in the skincare aisle are so expensive, and whether the cheap ones do anything at all.

If you’ve ever waltzed into a Sephora and recoiled in horror at the price of an item, you are far from alone. Not long ago, I saw that British skincare brand Elemis was finally being sold in Canada. Since I had tried (and loved) a sample of their Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm, I was curious to see what a full jar would set me back. When I checked, it was $97 for 100 grams. For a product I was going to rinse away. I gasped and smugly returned to my Weleda Skin Food cleanser—which I can get for under $30 when it’s on sale—and never looked back.

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Yet, according to Annie Graham, a cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Calgary’s Atomic Pom Labs, some brands aren’t deliberately trying to gouge us. “I don’t believe expensive products are inherently overpriced,” she says. “In many cases there are legitimate costs associated with formulation development, testing, manufacturing, packaging, distribution and retail margins.” She feels if consumers knew whether the price was built into the performance versus the luxury position, brand heritage and packaging, they’d have a better understanding of what they’re being charged for. As well, small independent brands need margins just to survive, which likely explains why Elemis has to charge about $100 for their cleansing balm. (Even so, I’m still not buying it.)

It also helps to understand another thing. “Every brand, every cosmetic chemist and laboratory is working from the same toolbox,” says Graham. “There are only so many raw materials in the world. It’s how they package it and create the story for you. It’s the fairy dust in your face.”

And sometimes we don’t mind forking over for that “fairy dust” because different things matter to everyone. There are aspects of the experience of using a product, such as the scent, the way it foams, or the cushiness that we genuinely love. “There’s value in that, too,” says Graham.

But if you’re on a budget and want strategies for choosing effective, wallet-friendly options, here’s what to know about finding the most essential skincare basics: cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. And if you want to go one step further, a serum. “If it’s purely functional, cheap and cheerful is the way to go,” says Graham. “You are not missing out on anything.”

What to look for in a really good facial cleanser

First things first. Don’t spend a lot on face wash since it’s a rinse-off product. “It’s not meant to stay on your face and continue to work on your skin,” says Toronto dermatologist Dr. Annie Liu, who ideally wants everyone, no matter their skin type, to choose something gentle. “Cleansers can actually do a lot of damage when they’re too harsh. They damage your barrier, and they can trigger rashes.” And she suggests avoiding sulphates, strong fragrance and products making strange claims.

Cleanser’s main goal is hygiene, so keep it simple. “It’s a basic product that we don’t need a lot of active ingredients in,” says Graham. “The average person wants it to take off their sunscreen and makeup.” If your skin’s on the oily side, you can use a gel. And if it’s dry, stick to a milk cleanser or something creamy.

Splurges: Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser ($120), Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale The Foam in Cream ($155), and Sisley Paris Cleansing Milk ($195)

Deals: CeraVe Cream-to-Foam Cleanser ($21), Uriage Hyséac Cleansing Gel ($26), and La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser ($27)

For the best moisturizer value, look at the ingredients

The expectations of a moisturizer tend to be sky high these days, says Graham, with people assuming it will offer a multitude of benefits. But at its core, a moisturizer is simply meant to keep your skin from feeling dry, and it does this with three components.

First, a humectant. “It pulls water in from the atmosphere,” says Liu, citing glycerin or hyaluronic acid as ingredients to look for.

Second, emollients—including fatty acids, such as ceramides—to soften the skin.

And third, an occlusive, which seals moisture in your skin. “That will be a film-former to prevent transepidermal water loss,” says Graham. “Most moisturizers have all three of those things.”

Skin dryness levels vary so choose the product appropriate for your skin. “Generally look for what the brand is telling you,” says Graham, whether it’s formulated for dry skin, extra-dry skin or oily skin. Moisturizers in pots feel “more luxurious” than those in a pump, says Graham but the choice of packaging comes down to personal preference.

Splurges: Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream ($270), Creme de la Mer ($520), and La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream ($815)

Deals: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel Cream ($30), Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer ($22), and Avène XeraCalm AD Lipid Replenishing Balm ($31)

Check the SPF—15 isn’t good enough

Liu advocates looking for two essentials in a sunscreen: a minimum SPF (sun protection factor) of 30 and a sunscreen that you like wearing on your face. “If it doesn’t feel great, you’re not going to use it,” she says. You know dermatologists will tell you this , but it’s worth repeating: Wearing sunscreen daily is non-negotiable if you want to take care of your skin and protect it from ultraviolet rays, the ones that can lead to skin cancer, premature aging and dark spots.

While expensive options exist, there is simply no reason to spend more than $30 on sunscreen; it’s not a product that needs the bells and whistles of luxury positioning or fancy packaging. Buying something less expensive doesn’t mean it’s inferior. “SPF is regulated even more strictly than cosmetics,” says Graham, so you can rest assured whatever you buy has passed Health Canada’s standards.

Splurges: U Beauty Multimodal Defender Balm Broad Spectrum SPF 30 ($229), Clé de Peau Beaute Protective UV Cream SPF 50 ($190), and Shiseido Urban Environment Oil-Free Sunscreen SPF 42 ($68)

Deals: Neutrogena Clear Face Sunscreen SPF 50 ($21), Garnier Ombrelle Face Sunscreen SPF 60 ($27), Attitude Sunly Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 ($23)

What serum should you use? And do you even need it?

Serums are ultimately not necessary, but they are a great addition if you aren’t feeling overwhelmed by your current skincare routine. Typically, serums are thin, concentrated treatments often dispensed from a dropper that feature one or two active ingredients intended to focus on a particular issue. Think vitamin C for sun damage and dullness, hyaluronic acid for dryness or niacinamide to calm redness and balance oil production. They are also “the one category where prices do tend to be higher,” says Liu.

Having said that, Graham’s strategy is to spend on a big, well-known brand simply because the company behind it will have done the research. “Serums are low-hanging fruit for regulators to come after, for customers to come after, lawsuits to come after, so companies are going to dot their Is and cross their Ts with their testing, data, and claims.”

Splurges: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic ($230), Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum ($415), and Medik8 Niacinamide Peptides ($79)

Deals: Garnier Vitamin C Brightening Serum ($27), L’Oréal Paris Bright Reveal Dark Spot Face Serum with 12% Niacinamide ($50), and The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + b5 Serum ($12)

Read more from this issue of The Get:

1. Are peptides worth the money? Should Canadians buy in? 
2. What does “pay transparency” even mean? Aman Malhi knows
3. DIY versus hiring someone to fix home repairs in Canada
4. What exactly happens to your belongings when you pass away without kids or a partner in Alberta?